By: Julio Moreno ( Tour to all 3 sites, $25 per person [includes buffet, and entrance to all sites, and personal driver] varies depending on your hotel)
The Royal Palace of the Kingdom of Cambodia.
Simple “how to” [get there] quick walk though:
1) By Plane:
Take a plane from wherever you live to Phnom Penh international Airport. When you arrive into Cambodia, you will be required to pay $20 for an entry visa to be processed. You will also be asked to bring with you 2 passport sized pictures with you [tip below] (you do not need to pay or prepare or pay for ANYTHING else before arrival). When you leave, you will have to pay another $25 as an “exit visa”. If you arranged somewhere to stay (look below) they might be able to pick you up from the airport, ask. Otherwise, there are many taxis right outside the airport. You should arrange ahead of time with your hotel as to a tour including these places (if your hotel doesn’t provide this, call the “Indochine 2” hotel, they do, info below). Often if the hotel is unable to provide tours themselves, they know someone who does, just ask (or take a taxi). Cambodia tends to be very hospitable to tourists and can accommodate your interests. The tours usually start very early, and the one in the hotel listed below, includes a buffet. Our hotel was also able to combine the tour with bus tickets to Siem Reap (for an additional $7).
Skeezy Tip #1: While the passport pics are “required” my friend lost hers on route. Apparently, its only a $2 fine if you forget. That is cheaper than the $9 I paid in Korea and probably cheaper than passport pictures in most countries. They instead just make you take a picture with a digital camera they have.
Skeezy Tip #2: Some websites promote an “on-arrival” visa verification for $10. This is a SCAM! The sites look very official, but was told upon arriving that the “verification form” they sold me for $10 was useless. When I confronted the website on this and told them I would report them, they refunded my $10.
2) By Bus:
There are many direct bus routes from Sihanoukville, Siem Reap, Vietnam, or Thailand. Ask your hotel and they will most likely know. Keep in mind, you will have to pay some sort of fee if you enter by land. Just like by plane, your hotel might be able to pick you up from the bus depot, or you could easily get a cab.
Skeezy Tip #1: If you arent carrying a heavy load and are alone, motorcycles are about half the price of other taxis.
Skeezy Tip #2: You will also likely get swarmed with many taxi drivers trying to get you. Walk where more than one driver can see you, they will try to haggle with you for the best price.
Skeezy Tip #3: This applies to all of Cambodia. The US dollar and the Riel are used interchangeably with no problem at a street rate of 4000 Riel to 1 USD. If you are American, dont bother trading for Riel as you can consider the dollar the actual official currency, and the Riel as coins or change.
Story:
Choeung Ek Memorial (The Killing Fields): This is one of the over 20,000 mass graves found all over Cambodia where Pol Pot (ruler of Cambodia 1975-1979) ordered the genocide of the Cambodian people. Anyone who spoke up against the government was eradicated, along with any family they may have had. As seen from the picture below, no one was spared. This truly remarkable and obscene era in recent world history is largely unknown and the museum at the entrance tells part of the tale. From 1975-1979 anywhere from 1.7 – 3.5 million Cambodians were killed as a result of direct murder or massive famine. Given the population of Cambodia was around 7 million at the time, this is around 21%-50% of the population destroyed in 4 years. Pol Pot sought to bring a radical form of Communism called “Agrarian Socialism” where many forms of technology, most formal education, and city live would be abandoned to allow for mass farm cultivation. He effectively reduced the population of Phnom Penh in 1975 from 2 million, to virtually ZERO.
A testament to the brutality of the Pol Pot Regime. The sign on the right really says "Juvenile Female Kampuchean (Cambodian) 15-20 yrs old".
The center of the memorial, where the skulls found have been collected.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison): This was a high school which was converted into a prison during the era of Pol Pot. Tens of thousands of prisoners were held, tortured and eventually killed. Prisoners were often sent from here, to the killing field (mentioned above) to be buried or killed. As seen from the pictures below, age wasn’t a factor for determining an enemy of the state, as even children were murdered. In this prison, it is said that a little over 20,000 prisoners were held during its tenure, of which only 6 survived. The killing didn’t end until 1979 where another Communist nation (this is why you don’t see it too much in American taught history), Vietnam, invaded Cambodia and ousted Pol Pot, ending his Khmer Rouge regime.
The interior of S-21 shows the pictures taken of all the prisoners. This gets sadder as you move along the museum and see the prisoners get younger and younger.
The upper levels of S-21 have barbed wire to prevent prisoners from attempting suicide.
One of the larger individual rooms. They were however, only large for the comfort of the torturing guard as the prisoner was bounded to this chair at all times.
The Royal Palace: This is where the King of Cambodia resides. However, much like the queen of England, he doesn’t have any real administrative power. However, UNLIKE the queen of England, you are required to respect the king at all times as he is highly esteemed by the Cambodian people and badmouthing the king can result in negative repercussions. Rumor has it, one particularly unfortunately drunk foreigner forgot this rule and was send to prison for 3 months for cursing at a picture of the king.
One of the towers of the Royal Palace. The architecture is unique of Cambodian style.
Skeezy Tip #1: Many of the tourist spots around Phnom Penh are very sad to see, however keep your guard up. As the country relies heavily in the tourism of these spots, people will be out trying to make an extra buck on your lowered guard. In all 3 sites, you will see people selling books on a number of things including the S21 prison, Pol Pot, or a lonely Planet of numerous countries. However the price for these re-sellers is around $6-$10 a book. In the market place, you can get them for less than half. Furthermore, don’t make the mistake I did and carry books your whole trip, they actually sell the same books almost everywhere.
Skeezy Tip #2: At first glance, 4000 Riel (or $1 which is the equivalent) for 1/2 liter of water seems like a fair deal. However, this is an enormously inflated price, as they charge 500 Riel to a Cambodian. While it is unlikely that you can bargain them down to 500 Riel (which is 12 cents) it is very easy to get them to sell it for 2000 Riel. While this seems minor, trust me, you will be buying a LOT of water.
Skeezy Tip #3: The poverty in Cambodia is obvious. With that, come a lot of beggars. While seasoned travelers might now have a problem saying no to people asking for money (as parents often send their children to beg instead of to school) Cambodia’s begging can be different. You will often see children beg for some of what you are eating, chips, or even something as basic as water. This will break your heart, especially if you don’t have anything to give them and might be tempted to give them money. Do yourself a favor, pack plenty of snacks, or food and don’t hesitate to share with them. It is a lot better than giving them money, and cheaper too. They also get very talkative if you’re sharing snacks.
Skeezy Tip #4: Tour guides are available for these 3 places, but in reality, it is most worth it at the S21 prison. Like Siem Reap, there are no plaques or signs telling you the story of the prison. Furthermore, most guides inside are middle aged, who actually lived during that era. They have insider information and their own story to tell if you ask (as politely and delicately as possible of course).
Other places to go to / things to see:
The Central Marketplace: Cheap place to buy memorabilia, books, souvenirs, and jewelery.
Skeezy Tip #1: Tours, like the one I took are more time based than location based and are very flexible. With that said, it is possible for you to ask the driver for a detour to the market place. While you could always go yourself, you save yourself the taxi to and from the marketplace.
Skeezy Tip #2: This applied to more than just Cambodia. Jewelery is a huge scam here, in Thailand, and in Vietnam. Jewelers will try to show you how authentic and high quality their jewelery is using some “stone detection tools”. While they might have authentic stones, they are hardly the bargain they claim. It is a huge business to try to sell mass amounts of jewelery at very inflated prices, and fact of the matter is, unless you are an expert, you really cant tell the difference between high and low quality stones with the naked eye OR with tools. If you just must have jewelery, don’t buy too much.
Logistics:
Airplane: Fly into Phnom Penh International airport, and follow the instructions in the intro. Use sites like Kayak.com Airasia.com, Cheapoair.com, or Ctrip.com as they consistently give the cheapest rates (over sites like cheaptickets, and expedia.com).
Lodging:
1) Indochine 2 Hotel, as low as $17 a night for a single person.
http://www.indochine2hotel.com/accommodation.php
This is a recommended hotel because of the location, cleanliness, and services. They can make a tour package with a driver to take you to all three (or 4 including the marketplace) listed above, which includes a buffet for $25 a person, or $32 with bus to Siem Reap. The hotel has computers with internet in the lobby, and complimentary water bottles in your rooms.
2) Hostelbookers.com has private rooms as low as $4 a room/night.
3) Hostelworld.com has private rooms as low as $3 a room/night.
4) Couchsurfing.org is free, if you find someone who is willing to host you.
In addition to a free room, couchsurfing hosts might also show you around their city for free, as an exchange of cultures. Beware of creepers and do at your own risk.
Map:
Skeezy Planet Inc. 