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Posts Tagged ‘ignacio allende’

By: Julio Moreno (Tour to both cities: $18 (200 MXN), or about $15 (180 MXN) in buses from Guanajuato City)

Gothic Cathedral in "San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato State"

 

Note: Info on how to get to Guanajuato city was covered in the Guanajuato Part 1, it will be assumed you already read that article and can get from your country, into Mexico, and into Guanajuato City’s bus depot OR to the Guanajuato/Leon Airport (BJX).

Simple “how to” [get there] quick walk though:

From the Bus depot, or airport, there is no choice but to take a taxi. From the bus depot, its 40 MXN to the city hotels (see Guanajuato Part 1 for details on where to stay), from the airport its 400 MXN (skeezy tip below). From the depot, as soon as you exit you will see someone selling tours. Thankfully, the prices don’t vary in the city, so its a good idea to get them now. If you came by plane, they sell the same tour in the city in many kiosks, especially on Juarez Street, next to the Market place (see map on the Guanajuato Part 1 article). This tour takes all day, from around 9am-7:30 PM. Once you buy your ticket, they can pick you up at any hotel you stay. They take care of explaining everything, entrances to museums, and transportation. The tour also includes a stop at the grave of Jose Alfredo Jimenez, an icon in Mexican music and a minivan is used as transportation.

Skeezy Tip #1: You don’t eat ANYTHING until you reach San Miguel Allende which is at like 5:30PM. Given you leave early in the morning, make sure to eat a lot in the morning.

Skeezy Tip #2: You often stop in shops, “authentic candy stores” etc. You don’t have any requirement to get anything. The tour guys will hype it up as the best in the region but in reality, they are paid commission and are average tasting, and overpriced.

Skeezy Tip #3: When you arrive in San Miguel de Allende (the second of the 2 major cities you will visit), they will pressure you to eat in a “spot they know”. Coincidentally, it is also one of the priciest spots in all of Mexico. You don’t have to eat there. Tell them you want to find something else, and don’t be embarrassed to say you dont want to pay for a 100 MXN buffet, especially if you’re not that hungry.

Skeezy Tip #4: The visits, although taking the whole day, could feel rushed. This is especially true in the last stop, San Miguel de Allende. You don’t HAVE TO take a tour to get here. If you want to take your own time, you can take a bus to Dolores Hidalgo (60 MXN), or one to San Miguel de Allende (90 MXN) from the bus depot. Take a taxi from Guanajuato city to the “Central de Camiones” (bus depot).

Skeezy Tip #5: There really aren’t any English tour guides, and if there are, they will surely charge more. However a British couple on our tour gave me an idea. You can invite a Mexican friend, found on sites like “interpals.net” or “couchsurfers.org” to translate for you. The couple happened to be a Mexican-British woman, and an Englishman, so she translated for him.

Skeezy Tip #6: Given the ridiculous difference between the taxi from the airport (400 MXN) and from the bus depot (40 MXN), maybe you should make the most of it. Fly into Mexico city instead, and combine a trip here with one in this article of Mexico City as that airport is ON the Mexican subway network and will save you money in the long run. Then find your way to the Yellow Subway line “Autobuses del Norte” Stop and take a bus to “Guanajuato City”. From here follow the instructions in this article and the Guanajuato part 1 article.

Church at "Dolores-Hidalgo, Guanajuato State". This is the location where Miguel Hidalgo declared independence from Spain.

Story:

Mexico’s road to independence from Spain (1810-1821) has numerous motives. Miguel Hidalgo was a priest in (what was at the time) Dolores, Guanajuato. He claimed that the Spanish crown that controlled them was an illegitimate government because at the time, Napoleon had conquered Spain and set up a puppet government. He used this pretext to give what is historically called the first “grito” (yell) of independence on Sept 15-16 (date disputed) 1810. He declared Mexico independent and went on to declare slavery abolished (take note, 50 years before the US) forming an army with them.

Inside Miguel Hidalgo's Original Church

He soon found out however, that he wasn’t the only the only one plotting revolt, as a Spanish Captain named Ignacio Allende had also started an independence movement just 25 miles north of his city. Hidalgo joined the forces of Allende and his allies Jose Mariano Jimenez and Juan Aldama, also from what was at the time San Miguel el Grande, Guanajuato (later renamed San Miguel de Allende in Allende’s honor). Together, they slowly took lots of cities, however bad planning by Hidalgo led to horrific defeat in Guadalajara. All four leaders were finally captured near the American boarder and executed in 1811, a single year after the war broke out.

Although the struggle was continued mostly by later leaders such as Jose Maria Morelos, and finalized by the treaty between Vicente Guerrero and Spanish General Agustin de Iturbide in 1821, the original four leaders were forever immortalized as the inciters and face of the fight for Mexican Independence. Every Mexican president gives “el grito” on Independence Day (Sept 16th) in Mexico City in memory of Hidalgo and once per term, stay in Dolores-Hidalgo to give “el grito” from the original church where Hidalgo did it 200 yrs ago.

The original flag of the Virgin Mary that Hidalgo carried around to rally troops. Currently in Atotonilco, Guanajuato, Mexico.

Murals inside the Church of Atotonilco, Guanajuato

While it may seem that this is more of a religious retreat than a historical one, it must be understood that religion was, and still is strongly intertwined with Mexican politics. While officially, Mexico claims to have a similar division between church and state like in the US, this is not so. It is more obvious in Mexico city which clearly illustrates the point by having the town square surrounded by the Presidential Building, the Supreme Court, Congress, and the Cathedral of Mexico City. Things like art, architecture and history are directly fused with the catholic religion.

Logistics:

Airplane info, lodging, and everything else was covered in the Guanajuato Part 1 article. Please read that

Map: San Miguel de Allende and Dolores Hidalgo relative to Guanajuato City.

 

 

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